INDIA ON THREE-WHEELS
(A Tempo Ride)

I finally reached Allahabad after a long journey. I was only left with the final stage of my trip, from the station to my destination, MNNIT Allahabad. I set out of the station in search of a means of transport. I did not have much of a clue about the Allahabad transport culture and the bus I thought should have been the best option. But there wasn’t a single one in the vicinity. Private taxis were of course out of question taking into account their impacts on an average man’s pocket. I was in a bit of a fix.
It was just then when my eyes caught something unusual but hopeful. A few metres down the road there was a vehicle approaching me. There was something about it. It was a rickety, queer-shaped, 3- wheeled vehicle painted in yellow and green shades, with most of it’s exteriors either rusted or dented. Furthermore it was overflowing with people. After enquiring I learnt that it was called a TEMPO and that it was a public transportation mode.
As the tempo neared on, my mind revolved around on whether or not to take the risk. Even before I could make my decision, a man popped out of that tempo chanting “Teliarganj-Teliarganj……”.He grabbed on to my bag and virtually dragged me inside assuming that I was going to that very place. I asked him for MNNIT and the looks on his face said the rest. He rubbished me as though I were joking with him. I gave another shot in the form of ‘Motilal Nehru’ hoping I would get his blessings as well and my man here would understand me. But it wasn’t my day. I simplified my thinking and went for ‘Engineering College’. Bingo!!!!!!!!. That was the keyword. Well, his assumption also turned out right as Teliarganj was the name of the area.
I started getting with a feeling of respite which wasn’t to be for long. It was jam packed as it seemed to me. Dejected and furious, I was about to step out when my man spoke out once again-“Jagah hai toh, Aaram se baithiye”(there’s enough space, sit comfortably).He made two of the passengers shift apart inspite of their reluctancy.That did create some space but it was only enough for my radius. But wasn’t it my diameter which was to be considered. Anyway I recalled the advertisement with the tagline-“India me bhai adjust bahut karna padta hai” and tried to fit in.
We finally set off. Everyone seemed to be staring at me as though they were planning a conspiracy against me. I ignored and looked out. As the tempo caught some momentum one could feel the cool air hitting hard through the numerous open spaces present. I had just started getting used to the terrible rattling noise when there was a sudden blast of an unpleasant, unbearable and unwanted music. It was some cheap lower grade song sung by singers whose voices at that moment resembled Chip-n-Dale. It was giving me a headache. I took it as yet another adjustment.
I counted at least 14-15 of us instead of 8-9 as it should have been. There were 4 in the front. The driver must be a real expert. We were 8 in the rear along with my man-the conductor on the door step and a couple of bags on the floor.
We also had a couple of guys hanging behind on the bumper. Boy! That takes some courage. The standard rule followed in seating was the ahead and behind alternation where one sits completely while the next one partially. The fact was that one was completely surrounded by people. People from different religions, castes, races and classes put together face to face and side by side.
It was starting to get dark now. The tempo rattled along the as most of the people were somewhere deep in their own world. All of a sudden the lady across raised her hand and started banging the roof. Everyone seemed unperturbed. The music stopped and we came to a halt. She had reached her destination. The driver turned on a bright yellow light which got me into my senses. There was a slight delay due to an argument over the fare. I thought it was probably a bit expensive or something.
I was told that I had finally reached my venue. I jumped out and asked the fare. I was prepared with a Rs 100 note when I heard something shocking. “Bhaiya aath rupaye ho gaye”. A mere eight rupees and that’s all.
As I walked along I couldn’t help thinking of the latest experience of my life. I spared a thought about the tempo drivers and conductors. They must be spending most of their days and presumably nights as well out on the streets. Be it the freezing cold, scorching heat or rain they have to be out there for the sake of their families and for their own sake. They are the lifelines of several major cities. They provide uninterrupted services despite all the odds and for all this the only cost a handful making them a real boon for the poorer mass. Above all they never seem to be gloomy or unhappy making them a representation of the true spirit of India.

(This story is purely a work of fiction. Though most of the story is based on my few years’ experience of commuting in tempo. I am pretty sure that most of you tempo commuters will find several resemblances with this account of a man on his first tempo ride)